Answer to Question #140460 in Biology for Domenica Gomez

Question

Describe the physical changes that occur to a wave’s wave speed (S), wavelength (L), height (H), and wave steepness (H/L) as a wave moves across shoaling water to break on the shore.

Answer 1

As a wave moves across shoaling water to break on the sho wave speed (S) decreases, wavelength (L) decreases, height (H) increases, and wave steepness (H/L) increases.